BANG, on Merrion Row is recommended in the 2017 Michelin Guide. I worked across the road for nearly 2 years. A school friend was formerly their pastry chef. It’s been there, quietly, consistently, for years. Yet somehow, I only visited this week. Keeping up with new openings is enough to keep you plenty busy . Seemingly, we’re all guilty of it. In the afternoon leading up to our dinner booking, our plans were met with the same response from fellow city-centre-regulars, that being “Oh I’ve heard about it so often, but never been!”
Well now I’m telling you, fix that immediately. You won’t be sorry. I was – but only that I hadn’t been sooner.
There’s less of a hype around The Winding Stair, more an ever-present hum. A hum of appreciation for the epicurean excellence that pours from the room. With something of a magic touch, the team behind the Winding Stair are also responsible for The Woolen Mills just a few doors away, and The Washerwoman in Glasnevin.
I booked us in on a whim for date night, a part of my mind waking up to remind me I had meant to try the food here. I left, full, and giddy at just how good it was.
There’s not much on this street. It’s the back of most places, a way to somewhere else. But soon, a familiar aroma seeps from under heavy, blackened doors. The monogrammed handles suddenly appear, framed in the mighty doorway, adorned with plaques and stars.
We push through, and it’s not so secret any more. The bar area bustles, tables chatter, a bed of music rises and falls under the volume of the crowd inside. A family of tourists are being apologised to, as there won’t be a table “for about another 45 minutes”; we slip on through; it pays to call ahead.
We sit by the wall, glancing at the food menu out of habit and then taking a look around the room; realising we’ve lost count of how many time’s we been here. Himself smiles from across the table, “Our place…” he says.